Saturday, September 21, 2013

Making Dry White Wine and Dry Rose' Wine



Heading Out to Get the Grapes
Muscat and Merlot Grapes
Generally each year, I make a red, a white, and a rose' wine, and I make these from different varieties of locally grown grapes.  Even though a white wine can be made from deeply pigmented grapes, I usually start with a white grape variety.  For me the basic recipe for making a white or a rose' wine is simple:  the grapes are gathered, crushed, pressed and the resulting juice is placed in a primary fermenter, analyzed, corrected for faults, and inoculated with a wine yeast.  The few analytical methods that I use will be found in this blog under different titles.  For example, in two previous parts of this blog, I describe how to measure the alcohol content of wines:  one is titled Measuring Alcohol Content in Wine by the Potential Alcohol Method and the other is titled Measuring the Alcohol Content of Wine.


Helping Hands
In this northeast region of Greece, the Muscat and Merlot grape varieties that I use ripen in the last week of August, and that means packing up the car and trailer and heading off to the grape farmer to get them.  I usually buy 200 kilograms (440 pounds) of each grape variety.  Once home, the real work of processing the grapes begins, and it is great to have an extra pair of hands to help.  I always work with grapes and make my own juice for fermentation.


Before I work on the grapes, I get the press and grape crusher ready.  Once set up and in place, the inside basket of the press is lined with clean plastic window screening.  This is done to prevent grape matter from seeping or shooting out under high pressure during pressing.



Loading the Crusher
I usually make my white Muscat grapes first. I crush the grapes and put them into the press stems and all.  Some grape suppliers at slightly extra cost will crush adnd remove the stems of the grapes for you, and believe me that saves a lot of hard labor.  Once full, the pressing begins, and the juice that is produced is placed in translucent plastic barrels on which I have marked volume heights.  When no more or very little juice flows from the press, it is opened, the mass of skins is loosened, and re-pressed.  Loosening the mass of skins in the press is repeated two or three more times.  In addition to getting more juice out of the grapes, there is at least one more good reason for re-pressing the mass of grape skins. 
Loading the Press
The white
wines and the rose' wines that I make are fermented off of their skins (the skins are not present during fermentation) and as a result will be low in the tannin they would otherwise extract from the skins.  Tannin is necessary for a healthy fermentation, and by re-pressing the skins two or three times, more of these vital tannins are extracted into the juice.  Of course, tannin is available at wine supply shops and can be added without the need for re-pressing.  In this case, just follow the instructions that come with the tannin.

 
Once the juice is in the plastic barrels and I know the total volume of must that I am dealing with, it is necessary to analyze the must for its sugar content and total acidity.  Based on the results of these anualyses, I will or will not make adjustments just before I inoculate the must with a wine yeast to start fermentation.


Pressing Rose'
To make rose' I follow the same recipe that I use for whites except that I use the Merlot grapes or another red grape variety.  Usually, I process approximately half of the Merlot grapes that I get into rose' wine.  So, re-pressing the crushed red grapes two or more times not only extracts the tannin needed for a healthy fermentation, but it also extracts more color from the skins to give the titled wine its hue.


The preparations and analyses that I do prior to the start of fermentation are few and simple.  They are, in the following order:


Primary Fermenter
Once the must is inoculated with the yeast starter, I leave it in the primary fermenter, a large 70 liter or 18 gallon food grade plastic container, for three to four days or until major foaming of the must stops.  I make sure that there is ample space above the surface of the must in order to prevent the foam from overflowing.  This usually means not filling the primary fermenter to more than three quarters of its volume.  Once I'm sure that major foaming is finished, the fermenting must is transferred to large 20 to 25 liter or 5 to 7 gallon glass containers each fitted with a rubber stopper and fermentation lock.  The fermentation lock is partially filled with water which prevents air from entering the jug, but allows carbon dioxide to escape.  Again I leave some space to accommodate foaming before filling the jugs to 4 or 5 inches below the fermentation lock.





Over the next 10 days or so fermentation will gradually slow considerably and large deposits of solids consisting of some tartrates but mostly dead yeast cells will form on the bottoms of the glass bottles.  (See the video above)  When this happens it is time to decant the must into clean jugs where fermentation will slowly continue.  This process of decantation which I do using a syphon pump is known as racking and is done in a way so as to disturb the sediments as little as possible.  As the fermentation slowly progresses noticeable deposits of white potassium acid tartrate, also known as cream of tartar, will form on the bottom of the jugs, and I will repeat the racking in about two weeks.  The formation of these tartrates happens because this salt of tartaric acid is not so soluble in the essentially alcohol and water solution that is slowly becoming wine, and the wine is slowly losing acidity.  After this second racking I will continue to rack the wine every two months or less until I am ready to filter the wine in preparation for bottling it.  I talked about filtering the wine and its value in a previous blog called Filtering the Wine.

    

    No comments:

    Post a Comment